Jerusalem can be expensive for lodging and dining, but a surprising number of its greatest sights cost nothing to enter. Many of the most important religious and historical places are open to all, which makes it possible to build a rich visit around free sights and add paid experiences selectively. Here is how to do it, with practical tips for each place.
The Western Wall
The great plaza at the foot of the ancient wall is free and open at all hours, with a security check at the entrance. It is a place of active prayer, so dress modestly, keep your voice low and respect the separate men and women sections. Early morning and after dark are the quietest and most atmospheric times, and photography is discouraged on the Sabbath and Jewish holidays.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Via Dolorosa
The church is free to enter and is the most important Christian site in the city, with queues at the Edicule that vary by season and time. The Via Dolorosa, the street associated with the final journey of Jesus, is a public street that you can walk freely, and its stations are marked along the way. Go early in the day to avoid crowds and heat. Dress modestly and be prepared for shuffling queues and incense.
Mount of Olives and Gethsemane
The panorama from the top of the Mount of Olives is free, and it is the classic view of the Old City. Take a taxi up and walk down through the churches and the olive grove, stopping at the Church of All Nations, which is free to enter. Late afternoon light is especially lovely, and the downhill walk is far easier than the climb.
Yad Vashem
The national Holocaust memorial and museum is free, but entry requires an advance reservation, so plan this a few days ahead. Give it at least three hours and expect a powerful and sobering experience. It is one of the most meaningful visits in the city, and the grounds also include memorials and quiet places for reflection.
Mount Zion and the Garden Tomb
Mount Zion is a free hill with several revered sites, and the Garden Tomb is a free walled garden with free guided tours that can be reserved. Both keep their own opening hours, and the Garden Tomb has a limited schedule, so check before you go. They provide a calm change from the busier Old City.
The Jewish Quarter and the Cardo
Wandering the restored lanes and the colonnaded Cardo costs nothing, and the quarter is one of the calmest parts of the Old City. Some individual sites inside it charge fees, but the streets themselves are free to enjoy. It is especially pleasant in late afternoon.
Mahane Yehuda Market
The market is free to walk, and sampling a few small items costs little, so it is a fine budget meal. Go on a weekday and graze rather than sit down for every meal, since small portions and shared plates keep costs low. It is quiet on Saturday.
Ways to save when you do pay
Group your paid sights, such as the Tower of David Museum, the Western Wall Tunnels and the Israel Museum, on the same days as nearby free sights so that you get value from the transport. Look at the ticket options in advance rather than at the door, since reserved entry saves time. Eat at simple counters for hummus and falafel instead of tourist-oriented restaurants, and choose hotels with breakfast included if the price works out. A hostel such as Abraham Hostel Jerusalem keeps accommodation costs down and arranges group tours, and a mid-range hotel like Harmony Hotel Jerusalem balances price and location.
Practical tips
Remember that many free sights are active places of worship, so dress modestly and behave respectfully. Check opening hours for the Sabbath and holidays, since closures can catch visitors out. Water, sun protection and comfortable shoes are essential, and the light rail along Jaffa Road is a cheap way to cover the city center. Keep a little cash for small purchases.
A free day plan
For a day built almost entirely on free sights, begin at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Via Dolorosa in the morning, walk through the Jewish Quarter to the Western Wall plaza around midday, and spend the afternoon on Mount Zion or the Mount of Olives and Gethsemane. End with an inexpensive meal at a hummus counter or a graze through Mahane Yehuda Market. The only money you will need is for food, water and a taxi or two, and you will have seen the core of the city.
