Before the temples of Nara Park became famous, Nara was a planned capital city, laid out on a grid after the Chinese model and called Heijo-kyo. At its northern end stood the imperial palace, the seat of the court for most of the eighth century, and its site on the western side of the modern city has been preserved as a large open historical park and a World Heritage property. The area is about a kilometre across, and what you see is a broad, grassy plain dotted with excavated foundations, with a few spectacular reconstructions standing out against the sky. The most striking is the Suzaku Gate, the main southern entrance, a two-storey gate of red pillars, white walls and grey tiled roofs, rebuilt in the late twentieth century to the original plan. Beyond it, across the plain, stands the First Daigokuden, the great audience hall where emperors received officials and where state ceremonies took place; its dimensions and decoration were recreated on the basis of excavations and surviving buildings, and the effect is of a complete Tang-style court emerging out of the grass. Nearby you can see the reconstructed Toin Garden, where aristocrats held banquets beside a winding pond, and a small museum and information centre that explain how the palace was found and rebuilt.
What to see
Begin at the Suzaku Gate, where the plaza gives a good sense of the scale, and walk north toward the Daigokuden, stopping at the excavation displays and the reconstructed buildings along the way. The ground is open and mostly level, with wide views and very little shade.
The Toin Garden, to the east of the main axis, is a quieter and more intimate corner where the pond, bridges and stepping stones recreate a banquet setting. The information centre has models of the ancient capital, and the museum explains the archaeology of the site.
Why it is worth the trip
Most of Nara's sights are temples and shrines that are still in use, and the palace gives a different picture, of a secular court and a city that lived beside the monasteries. It also helps explain why the temples are where they are and how the capital collapsed and moved.
Entry to the open grounds is free, and the space is welcome relief on a day of crowds. Spring and autumn bring good light, and the open plain can be very hot in summer and bitterly windy in winter, so dress for it.
Planning the visit
The palace site is west of the old town, about sixteen to twenty-five minutes by city bus from the two main stations, or a walk of about twenty minutes from Yamato-Saidaiji Station or Shin-Omiya Station on the Kintetsu line. Opening hours and closing days vary between the facilities, so check the site's own English pages if you want to enter the museum or the reconstructed halls. Allow about two hours for a relaxed visit.
It combines well with Yakushi-ji and Toshodai-ji, which lie a short train ride to the south, in a western-Nara half day. For families, the open space is a real advantage, since children can run without worrying about traffic or crowds, and the large red gate makes a good landmark for keeping the group together. Bring a picnic if the weather is fine, because there are few food options inside the grounds themselves.
What to expect
The experience
A free, self-guided walk across the grounds of the ancient palace, past rebuilt gates and halls and a recreated banquet garden.
Best time
A clear spring or autumn day, ideally in the morning, since the open plain has little shade.
How long
About two hours for the gate, the audience hall and the garden.
Tips
Bring a hat and water in summer, a windproof layer in winter, and check facility hours before you plan to go inside the museum or halls.
Quick picks
- Best for
- History lovers and anyone who wants to see Nara as a capital city rather than a temple town.
- Families
- Lots of space for children to run, with the big red gate as a good photo stop.
- Couples
- A spacious, quiet place for a walk, especially in the late afternoon.
- Pair with
- Yakushi-ji and Toshodai-ji in the same half day.
- Time needed
- Allow about two hours.
Good questions
Is Heijo Palace free?+
Entry to the open grounds is free. Facilities such as the museum may have their own opening hours.
How do I get there from Nara Station?+
A city bus runs from both main stations to the Suzakumon-hiroba stop, taking roughly sixteen to twenty-five minutes. You can also walk from nearby Kintetsu stations.
What is the Daigokuden?+
It is the great audience hall where the emperor received officials and held state ceremonies. The present building is a reconstruction based on excavations.
Is it worth visiting with limited time?+
If you have only one day, choose the park and the great temples first. With a second day, the palace gives valuable context.
Is there shade?+
Very little, so bring sun protection in summer and a warm layer in winter.
