Tel Aviv

Old Jaffa sits on its headland with a clock tower, a working harbor and a flea market, while the beach promenade runs for kilometers north along the sand. Carmel Market delivers the everyday food scene, Neve Tzedek adds low-rise lanes, galleries and dance, and the White City, a UNESCO World Heritage area, shows off one of the world’s largest collections of International Style buildings. For culture there is the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, the ANU Museum of the Jewish People and the Nahum Gutman Museum, and Sarona turns a restored nineteenth-century colony into a leafy, walkable quarter. This guide shows what to book ahead, what is free, how the Sabbath changes the rhythm of the week and where to stay, from a boutique near Rothschild Boulevard to a sociable hostel close to the market.