Bukhara's old town is compact, but some of its most interesting sights lie beyond it, among orchards and villages on the edge of the oasis. A countryside tour takes you by car to these places, normally with a guide and a traditional lunch. The headline stop on many itineraries is Sitorai Mohi-Khosa, the summer palace of the last emirs of Bukhara, built in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. The palace blends local decorative traditions with European influences, giving it an eclectic look unlike anything in the old city: mirrored halls, painted ceilings, carved plasterwork and a garden with peacocks in some seasons. Other typical stops can include a shrine or complex associated with Bahauddin Naqshband, the founder of the Naqshbandi Sufi order, whose tomb complex draws pilgrims from across the Muslim world, and village workshops. Because itineraries vary by operator, read the description of the tour you choose to see exactly which stops are included. The trip pairs well with an old-town day because it shows how the emirs lived and gives breathing room between the dense monuments of the centre.
The palace and its story
The summer residence was built for Emir Alim Khan, the last ruler of Bukhara, who was deposed in 1920. Craftsmen from Bukhara worked alongside Russian architects, and the result is a mix of styles that reflects an emirate caught between traditions. Rooms are richly decorated, with a white hall of carved plaster and a reception area with mirrors, while the grounds offer shaded walks. Part of the building is now a museum of decorative and applied arts, which adds to the visit if you are interested in textiles and metalwork.
Working the visit
The tour usually takes half a day, with transport arranged from your hotel. Lunch in a local family setting or a restaurant is a common part of the package, and it gives you a chance to taste Bukharan dishes. Wear modest clothing if you will visit a shrine, with shoulders and knees covered, and a scarf is useful for women.
Bring water and a hat in summer. Check which stops are included, because a tour that includes the shrine will be quieter and more spiritual, while one that focuses on the palace and workshops is lighter.
When to go and what to avoid: this is a good use of a hot afternoon or a second day in Bukhara, when you have already seen the main monuments. Avoid it if you have only one day in the city, since the old town deserves priority. Weekends can be busy at pilgrimage sites, so mornings on weekdays are quieter.
Hours and opening days of the palace can change, so confirm them on the day. Many travellers say this was the surprise of their Bukhara stay, precisely because it is so different from the brick and tile of the centre.
What to expect
The experience
A guided half-day drive from the old town to the emir's summer palace and other countryside sights, with a traditional lunch.
Best time
Weekday mornings, or a hot afternoon when you have already covered the old town.
How long
Roughly half a day, depending on the stops.
Tips
Check which stops are included, dress modestly for shrines and bring water and a hat in summer.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Second-day visitors to Bukhara who want something beyond the old town.
- Families
- Suitable, with a car and a lunch break, though shrine visits need quiet behaviour.
- Couples
- Relaxed and scenic, with a more intimate pace than the old town.
- Pair with
- A morning in the old town and an evening at Lyab-i Hauz.
- Time needed
- A half day.
Good questions
What is Sitorai Mohi-Khosa?+
It is the summer palace of the last emirs of Bukhara, built in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, with a mix of local and European decorative styles.
Which stops are included?+
It depends on the tour. Read the itinerary of the product you choose, since countryside routes differ by operator.
Is lunch included?+
The tour title includes a traditional lunch, but confirm the details when you book.
What should I wear?+
Modest clothing with covered shoulders and knees, especially if the route includes a shrine.
Is it worth it with only one day in Bukhara?+
Probably not. The old town deserves your first day, and the countryside suits a second day.
