
A hillside park of fountains, statues and quiet paths in the Urakami valley, laid out beside the spot where the second atomic bomb exploded on 9 August 1945. It is the emotional centre of Nagasaki and the place most visits begin.

The city's main museum of 9 August 1945, telling the story of the bombing and its long aftermath through survivors' belongings, photographs and testimony. Sobering, thoughtful and essential for understanding Nagasaki.

A walk through the Urakami district, the heart of Japan's Catholic community and the neighbourhood under the bomb, linking the cathedral, surviving ruins and quiet memorials.

A boat trip to Hashima, the abandoned coal-mining island whose concrete towers look like a warship on the horizon. Weather decides whether you can land, but the view alone is memorable.

A hillside garden of Meiji-era western houses with harbour views, beside Oura Church, Japan's oldest surviving wooden Gothic church. The two sights tell the story of foreign settlement in old Nagasaki.

A hilltop memorial and museum for the 26 Christians executed in 1597, the starting point for understanding Nagasaki's extraordinary hidden Christian story.

A ropeway ride to the 333-metre summit above Nagasaki harbour for one of the great night views of the world, with the city glittering in a bowl of hills.

A restored fan-shaped island where Dutch traders lived while Japan was otherwise closed to the world, now a museum of rebuilt warehouses and merchant houses, with a kimono walk option.

One of Japan's three great Chinatowns, a compact grid of red gates, dumpling stalls and restaurants serving champon and sara udon, famous for its lantern festival.

Japan's oldest stone arch bridge, whose reflection forms a pair of spectacles, set along a pleasant riverside path of stone bridges, temples and cafes, with a kimono photo option.

Ride Nagasaki's clattering streetcars with a guide who knows the stops, the shortcuts and the stories, linking the main sights on a flexible half day.

An evening on foot through Nagasaki's lively izakaya streets, sampling local small plates, seafood and drinks with a guide who knows the best counters.